Cycling in Isaan: Road Conditions

December 23, 2024 – Khao Phra Wihan National Park to Ban Wari Udom – 45 kms – Kanthiya Garden Hotel

December 24, 2024 – Ban Wari Udom to Det Udom – 54 kms – Saabpaiboon Grand Resort 

Our mood sobered quickly today when we passed a recent fatal accident. We know it was fatal because the body was still lying on the road bundled in what appeared to be a funeral shroud. There was a helmet and a lot of small bits of what once was a scooter. Someone’s son or husband; why do I assume the victim was male?

Before we left home I read that the accident rate and incidence of drunk driving was higher in Isaan than the rest of the country. Our experience, however, has been very good, with a solid 90% of drivers being both considerate and apparently sober. 

It helps that we leave early in the morning and find alternative quiet roads when they are available. Gord and I both feel that cycling is safer here than in Canada. A major difference is the attitude of most drivers. Even the big rigs will usually slow down until it is safe to pass. 

The roads are a mix of normal scooters, and ones fitted with side cars or trailers.  The cars are mostly high end pickups or luxury SUVs. The kings of the road, however, are the bigger rigs. These babies are much loved and highly decorated. Many of them are the full “quadraphenia” with thirty or forty mirrors stacked on each side. Many sport colorful ribbons and fantastic paint jobs. The other favorite ornament is a collection of Michelin Men. 

Today’s ride was solely on a highway and traffic was moving faster. Even with our nice wide shoulder I wasn’t enjoying the truck traffic passing.

After we passed the accident scene it felt like the speed slowed back down to what felt reasonable, everyone sobered by the tragedy. 

I would not hesitate to cycle anywhere in Thailand, but as with all driving, there are always some risks.