On the Back Roads in Laos

January 4, 2025 – Phetkamdy Nammakhod Guesthouse to Muang Thapangthong – 90 kms -Thounthavisak Guesthouse 

January 5, 2025 – Muang Thapangthong – Pakxong – 81 kms – Poumixai Guesthouse 

Cycling the back roads from Salavan through Muang Thapangthong and down to highway 13 is a world away from the more developed parts of Laos, and a galaxy away from the few places tourists visit. As we cycled through one ethnic minority village I watched a teenage girl hang a dead squirrel from a loop of string on her shop stall to sell.  Gord and I had noticed as soon as we crossed the  border into Laos that the bird songs were largely gone. Laos is a poor country and many people, particularly in the ethnic minority groups, survive by some hunting and gathering. It turns out those pretty birds I have been painting are tasty. 

The ride took us through a series of ethnic minority villages that are known for their fine weaving. Under most of the stilt houses a woman was working in the shade on her loom. We stopped to admire the work of a few young woman weaving their beautiful designs. 

We have mostly been leaving our camera in the bag for these interactions. Early on some friendly kids hid when I pulled out my phone just to use my translation app with them, which I took as a statement that they don’t wish to be photographed.

While the bird songs have been largely silenced they have been replaced with  a chorus of voices of children and adults calling out “Sabaidee”, “hello”, or “Thank You” as we ride past. Laughter always erupts after we return their greetings.