July 26, 2015Oh it was hard to leave Portugal, but also thrilling to enter Galicia again. The first kilometres in Spain were just magical. The beauty resumed after we made it passed Porriño with its ugly industrial section and competing arrow wars. Certain members of the community continually deface and cross out arrows re marking the Camino to pass by their businesses. By the end ...
ILooking over to Spain from Valença. July 25, 2015Gordon: Today is the feast day of St. James, the patron saint of Spain. We are intentionally two days ride from Santiago, to allow the crowds to clear so we can get a place to stay when we arrive there.Tonight we are staying in the Portuguese town of Valença, famous throughout northwestern Spain for ... towels and sheets. ...
July 24, 2015We have been having much too much fun to blog. When you have a husband like Gord, humour tends to stick, even to the serious moments. As he explains, "trolls are funny when they are not being creepy."The view from our bedroom in Ponte de Lima. For the last few days we have been zigzagging between the coastal and interior Camino routes, hitting all ...
July 21, 2015Ruth: The Port was lovely, and the Bacalao, as Gord mentioned, surprisingly good, but the crown of favorites so far would have to go to the pastel de nata. To say they are a dessert underestimates their wonder. Move over creme brûlée, cannoli and, yes, even chocolate, these babies are my new favourites. The puff pastry base cups the yummy egg and cream ...
July 20th, 2015Gordon: Prior to our arrival in Portugal we had read in our guide book that the Portuguese prepare bacalhão (dried, salted codfish) in 365 different ways, one for each day of the year. However, we expected that this was a relic of the past, and that they would be eating Captain Highliner's fish sticks like the rest of us. How wrong we were. ...
July 19, 2015Gordon: Our reliable friend Pocket Earth found an excellent route for us today. It has a feature that allows a route to be developed with minimal change in elevation, which is a real boon for cyclists. The route suggested for today's ride into Porto was 15 km longer than the most direct route, but it took us through the flat area along the ...
July 17, 2015The ride from Ansião to Coimbra included a stop at the Roman site of Conimbriga. They have a very impressive collection of mosaics from the remains of a number of villas. From there we parted company with the Camino trail in search of a paved road for the last leg of the day. So far we have been primarily following the Camino route ...
July 15, 2015We spent an extra day in Tomar, partly to recover from our exertions during Disco Inferno, but mostly to visit the Templar Castle and the Convento de Cristo. This is a fabulous sight. We even violated our rule of not spending more than two hours gawking at a monument, museum or art gallery. The castle, built in the 12th century, was the Portuguese ...
July 13th, 2015Fatima to Tomar 35kmThe day began with a lovely ride through the hills and an encounter with a medieval castle, and ended with Gordon and I shaking our booties in a disco flash mob on our street in Tomar. We delayed our arrival in Tomar to miss a festival when accommodation is all booked up and 600,000 visitors flood the streets to see a ...
July 12, 2015Alcobaça -Batalha - Fatima 44kmThe most important pilgrimage in Portugal is not to the tomb of Saint James in Santiago but to Fatima. Here pilgrims wearing yellow reflective vests walk through the street led by a singing Priest with a megaphone. My aunt Joe, one of my most devout Catholic relatives, came here on a trip that also included a visit to Lourdes.Fatima ...