Gordon: Temple 12 was unfinished business for Ruth. It is the first significant challenge on the Shikoku pilgrimage, and Ruth had been obsessively strategizing about it for weeks before we arrived in Japan. In the end, she and Geraldine took a taxi to it on our first encounter. Seven weeks of cycling later, Ruth is feeling much stronger and she wanted to cycle up. ...
Description Ryōzenji , temple number one on the Shikoku pilgrimage, is the beginning, end, and now the beginning for us. Unlike all the other pilgrimages I have done, Shikoku is a circle and people can start and finish anywhere, with the goal simply to visit all of the temples. After reciting the Heart Sutra at 88 temples before returning to Ryōzenji, I have been ...
The view from the ridge Gord climbed Ruth: Yesterday Gord and I climbed from the seashore to the Temple 88 on the Shikoku pilgrimage. I cycled on the road while Gord took a trail that climbed much higher. Before the big climb we met at the Henro Museum where we were each given a henro ambassador certificate (the equivalent of a Compostela on the Camino) ...
Gordon: Despite its industrialization and massive cities, Japan still has a rich diversity of vegetation harbouring a lot of wildlife. Some of the animals we regularly spot include carp, egrets, herons and cormorants. Some days I have also seen literally hundreds of turtles in ponds and slow moving rivers. They are mostly red sliders, some as large as dinner plates. Despite their slow-witted reputation ...
Ruth: I saw a t-shirt at a temple that simply said “Life is Henro,” and I am beginning to agree. It’s hard not to compare our experiences on the various Camino routes with the Shikoku 88 temple Henro. Visiting Japan, even without doing the Henro, is so different. For me, one of the things I appreciate so much about this route is that the Henro ...
Gordon: Last night we spent the night at Minshuku Okada, located between Temples 65 and 66. The proprietor, Akira Okada, is in many respects a very interesting fellow. To begin with, he is 91 years old, though like many Japanese he looks much younger. He was constantly in motion in the garden and the house. Among other activities, he prepared an excellent dinner for six ...
Ruth: I knew in advance that most of the 350 meter climb up to Temple 65 occurred in the last few steep kilometres. I taped my knees, loaded up on more sugary treats than normal, and started the day full of confidence. After stopping at a lovely henro hut for second breakfast with Gord, I headed for the temple. Although the route was marked and ...
Gordon: We are spending two nights at a business ryokan near Temple 62. This has permitted us to enjoy an unladen day doing a return trip to Temple 60. Visiting this temple involves a henro-korogashi (pilgrim falls down) climb to 750 metres. Like many mountain temples, number 60 is set in a mature cedar forest. It also has a large area planted with rhododendrons, which ...
Ruth: There are relatively few foreigners on the Shikoku pilgrimage route, so we tend to spend our time with the Japanese that we meet. As the lovely temples begin to blur together, what stands out more for me each day are the wonderful interactions we have with locals. When we were planning our trip to Japan I told Gord that I definitely would not be ...
Ruth: There are moments everyday when I am struck by just how different Japan is from any other country I have visited. It goes beyond their resistance to global trends like chairs and beds, and the interesting coexistence of modernity and ancient traditions. Take this cute little creature, the tanuki. Do not be fooled by the monks garb and big innocent eyes, as I was. ...