Another Henro-korogashi: Temples 59 – 62

Gordon: We are spending two nights at a business ryokan near Temple 62. This has permitted us to enjoy an unladen day doing a return trip to Temple 60. Visiting this temple involves a henro-korogashi (pilgrim falls down) climb to 750 metres. Like many mountain temples, number 60 is set in a mature cedar forest. It also has a large area planted with rhododendrons, which are currently in bloom. Ruth cycled to the end of one of the access roads, and then we walked the final 2.2 kms together. It was a strenuous but delightful trail through the forest.

We are staying at accommodation known among henro as the “butcher’s”, because it is owned by a butcher. This is significant because it means that meat replaces fish as the centrepiece of dinner. The presentation of dinner is quite fun, as it is done as a hotpot. Each diner, or pair of diners in the case of a couple, share a pot of flavoured water heated by a butane burner. A plate of thinly sliced meat and a mountain of vegetables are placed on the table for the guests to cook. When beef is served, as it was this evening, each guest also gets a raw egg to dredge the cooked items through before consuming them. We had to bathe after dinner as we had splattered so much on ourselves during the course of eating, but it was a fun and tasty experience.

Yesterday we visited Temple 62. It is unique among the 88 temples, as it does not belong to the Shikoku pilgrimage temple association. It does not permit some tour groups to visit the temple, it has closed its washrooms to pilgrim use, and it charges twice the usual amount for the stamping of a pilgrimage book. Our guidebook does not explain the rationale for the partial rejection by Temple 62 of the normal operating procedures at the temples. My own theory is that a devout monk running the temple resents the visits of tourist pilgrims like ourselves. If so, it would be a departure from the open welcome we have received everywhere else on this pilgrimage.