We suffered a bit of anxiety around the flight out of Lukla, as the day before we were scheduled to depart a number of flights were cancelled due to cloudy weather. As it turned out, the weather was fine and flights left in as regular a manner as can be expected in Nepal.The takeoff at Lukla airport is a unique experience. As at Ramechhap the pilot ...
We completed the Everest Three Pass trek in 19 days, leaving us with two days before our flight to Kathmandu. We considered various options and finally settled upon an overnight excursion along the trail towards Jiri. This trail is one of the options for those that would prefer to walk to Lukla rather than take a flight. It typically takes six days and is only used ...
We had a relaxed two day walk from Namche to Lukla. As we lost elevation the vegetation became lusher and the human population more dense.Last night we stayed at a small family run guesthouse in Tok Tok, about midway between Namche and Lukla. The owner was a mountaineer in his younger years and had summited Lhotse and another 8000 metre peak in Tibet, as well ...
Today’s walk was like some kind of Himalayan fantasy. We passed through juniper and rhododendron forests, strode along trails cut out of ravine walls hundreds of feet above a river, crossed a bridge above a roaring waterfall, and passed through several traditional villages. The light was magnificent and we could hardly make any progress with all of the photo stops.About halfway to Namche we started ...
We had a very easy day today, drifting down from Lumden (4350 m) to Thame (3850 m). It was interesting to observe the change in vegetation as we lost elevation. The tiny, thorny shrubs yielded to juniper and dwarf willow, the juniper grew, and then finally, at the edge of Thame, we entered a small forest of rhododendrons and birch. These were the first trees ...
Today we transitted the last of the three passes on our trek. They have been getting easier, but we still spent four hours climbing and three hours descending from the Renjo La. None of the passes have been the rounded walkovers common in the Rockies; there is always a scramble near the top of the invariably knife edged summit.It was another gorgeous day, with light ...
We are spending two nights in the village of Gokyo, located at 4800 metres. The destination of a recognized trek in its own right, it is increasingly visited as part of the Three Pass Trek. Gokyo is well known for a couple of day trips: to a viewpoint called Gokyo Ri, and to a series of lakes upstream from the town.We undertook the 560 metre climb ...
Yesterday we walked down a bit from Gorak Shep (Everest Base Camp) before turning off the main trail towards Cho La. The number of trekkers per day immediately dropped from about 300 to about 50.The trail to Dzongla, at the base of the Cho La, was gorgeous, with impressive peaks and a large, emerald green glacial lake.Dzongla itself was charming, with excellent views and perhaps ...
It is surprising that I have not noticed the smell of anyone in the crowded dining rooms at the trekking lodges, because personal hygiene is challenging while trekking. This has been brought home to us at Gorak Shep, where there is so little water that none of the lodges offer showers.Most of the lodges at lower elevations do have showers heated by gas from cylinders, ...
Today we walked from Lobuche to Gorak Shep. Located at 5200 metres, this is the last outpost of trekking lodges on the Everest Base Camp trek. From here it is possible to walk to the Everest Base Camp, which we will do tomorrow. The other day hike is to Kala Pattar, which provides a good view of Everest.We arrived in Gorak Shep before noon, and ...