Our last two days on the route were hot but stunningly beautiful. Yesterday we passed through Saint-Rémy-de Provence. Even though no Van Gogh paintings remained in Provence, many were painted near Saint-Rémy and Arles. The route is now an Art pilgrimage passing many signs that indicate which paintings were created at a particular location. I still am so moved by Van Gogh’s art snd his ...
I’ve learned a few things about weather forecasts in my last few trips. I used to let a bad weather forecast torment me even before the bad weather arrived. I would think to myself, “This the last nice day we will have for a week.” In some cases I wouldn’t even enjoy the nice day. I would only be happy when we had that narrow ...
Seeing the land of Cezanne as he saw it. In the early morning light that transforms the sugar cube houses into peach and orange and the pines into umbrellas sporting every possible shade of green. Cooing doves form the morning soundtrack but as soon as the afternoon heat rises the cicadas begin their loud electric cha cha cha. They’re silenced only if we come too ...
Three days ago we passed our first lavender field. The mountains were becoming more rounded, the style of the houses was changing, and we began to hear cicadas. The city of Sisteron, self-described as the gateway to Provence, made it official: we have entered that justifiably famous region. Starting with Sisteron we have been treated to a series of beautiful cities and villages in the ...
On a daily basis, across four countries, Ruth and I have had agitated dogs barking at us as we pass. The dogs are almost always chained up or behind a fence, so they are rarely a real threat, though we do occasionally get a shot of adrenaline when they materialize from nowhere in a burst of noise and dog saliva.I’m not sure why Europeans feel ...
I must be tired. Things are bugging me and I’m feeling grumpy. The “Welcome “ book at the campground where we have rented a bungalow has more rules and warnings about fines and consequences than any real welcome. In order to use their pool I had to buy Gord a clinging French approved bathing suit, because the shorts style are strictly forbidden. We knew this ...
This is now Gordon’s longest walk ever. We passed our previous record of 1700 kms yesterday. We both have been so focused on our journey and the logistics of finding and booking accommodation and deciding upon routes that we missed our 20th wedding anniversary. We will have to make up for that at the end of the mont when we celebrate our anniversary of 33 ...
I’m never really alone, you know. As I started my climb out of Cesana, I heard a plaintive cry, “Wait! I’m coming with you!” After turning the first bend my shadow caught up to me and took the lead. “Is it going to be steep?” Giving a pointed look towards Grandma Friday, I replied, “No, not too steep.” On the next turn my shadow hung ...
Tomorrow I climb up to the pass at Monginevro and say good bye to Italy as we cross into France. I do want to point out that although the Tour de France also climbs up and over the same pass, the cyclists take the less steep direction and let their sag wagons carry their suitcases. Grandma Friday and I have also heard that some of ...
Not long after Turin everything begins to change as we wind up and into the Susa valley. The riding is only a gentle climb at the entrance to the valley, but we have clearly arrived in the Alps. The mountains rise up on either side of the valley, jagged and majestic. The treeless alpine areas are just above us. Yesterday Gord mentioned that it’s like ...