Closing the Loop

January 16, 2025 – Khoun Kham to Hinboun (on Highway 13) – 99 kms – Icerin Guesthouse 

January 17, 2025 – Hinboun to Nakhon Phanom – 50 kms – The Square Hotel

From Khoun Kham we climbed over a ridge and descended through a beautiful national park forest, complete with signs imploring people not to kill the animals or cut the vegetation.  We even saw a troupe of wild monkeys, who hastened away from us.  I think that monkey larb and sticky rice is not an unknown dish in the region.

Once we were in the flatland near the Mekong we started the more tedious portion of the Thakhet Loop, the 100 kilometres along Highway 13.  This portion of the highway has been repaved, so it was a fast and easy ride that enabled us to do our longest day: 99 kms.  Unfortunately, the monotony of it also meant that Ruth crashed her bike after inadvertently hitting the back of mine.  She’s ok, but she has a nasty road rash on one knee.  She also had the most remarkable, quick rising goose egg on the other shin that we thought she had fractured it.  The swelling has since subsided.

We crossed the Mekong back into Thailand today.  The formalities were going well until we were told that we would have to take a bus across the Friendship Bridge.  This was a bit frustrating, as we were quite able to cycle across the river, but it got worse when we were told that the bus wouldn’t come for 4 hours, and probably wouldn’t have room for us in any event.  Ruth played it in the Asian manner, smiling while asking about the logistics.  The Lao border official eventually said that there was a second option, which is to hitch a ride with a truck.  We positioned ourselves and stuck our thumbs out.  The reluctant driver of the very first vehicle was, I believe, voluntold to take us across.  Such is the power of a uniform in a People’s Republic.  The driver ultimately came around and earned Buddhist merit by declining our proffered payment.

The ride into Nakhon Phanom was along 10 kms of paved bike path on the edge of the Mekong.  It was treed and beautiful, and the air was once again filled with birdsong.  We saw a number of bee eaters, Ruth’s favourite bird in this region.

I already miss the dramatic karst mountains of Laos, but there are more creature comforts to be found on the Thai side of the Mekong.  Nakhon Phanom is another charming riverside city, with a lovely waterfront promenade and a kilometre long night market.  We are very happy to be back in Thailand.