Camino de San Salvador

May 21, 2024 – Villamanín de la Tercia – Payares 19kms – Albergue Peregrinos 

May 22, 2024 – Payares – Pola de Lena – 23kms – Apartamento 

May 23, 2024 – Pola de Lena – Oviedo – 34kms – Uría 25 Rooms

I intersected the Camino de San Salvador at Poladura de la Tercia and we spent three days on this Camino to Oviedo .

Our first day on the San Salvador, from Poladura to Payares, is described in one of the Spanish guides as the “queen stage”.  It is a spectacular climb to two passes, both at about 1560 metres.  This is a wild mountain landscape of sculpted limestone cloaked in heather.  I had some rain over the summits, but thoroughly enjoyed the climbs.

The descents between the first and second pass, and down from the second pass to Poladura, were another matter.  There were long stretches of mud on the 30 degree slopes.  Great for river otters, but less pleasant for an ageing pilgrim carrying a backpack and clad in running shoes.  I’m afraid my audible commentary on the experience would have made a pirate blush.  I did eventually have one tumble that left me covered in mud and wrenched my neck a bit.

The end of the day was at the pilgrim albergue in Payares.  We shared this beautiful 15 bed albergue with two other pilgrims, Yves from Paris and Ula from Sweden.  The entire village is set on a shelf on the mountainside, so every house, including the albergue, has spectacular mountain views.

Based upon my experiences the previous day I chose to walk down the highway from Payares to Pola de Lena. It was a pleasant and attractive walk, but for a cyclist it is a remarkably steep road.  There were posted sections of 10, 12 and a remarkable 17 percent grade.

During the course of the day we passed and visited the UNESCO designated 9th century church of Santa Christina de Lena.  I love a UNESCO site that sees so few visitors that you have to call the guardian to remind them that it’s time for the brief daily opening period.