San Andrés de Teixido

June 4, 2024 – Barquiero to Cuiña – 25 kms – Hostal Restaurante Casa Giz

June 5, 2024 – Cuiña to San Andrés de Teixido – 29 kms – Casa Rural San Andrés de Teixido

Today we arrived at a major pilgrimage destination in Galicia.  No, not that one, but rather San Andrés de Teixido.  This one also involves an apostle, but St. Andrew rather than St. James.  The story goes that St. Andrew settled into this area after his boat capsized.  He grew envious of the pilgrim traffic to Santiago, so God and St. Peter promised him that all creatures would have to come to his sanctuary either in life or thereafter.  One variation of the story has people coming here as reptiles or insects if they don’t make it in their lifetime.  I guess Ruth and I have dodged that journey, but I still think I’m coming back as a cockroach.

The sanctuary is nestled on the flanks of a ridge overlooking the ocean in a remote area.  It was a bit of work to get here, as we had to climb to 600 metres on a ridge and then drop down the other side.  Our guidebook says that the 600 metre cliffs down to the sea are amongst the highest in Europe.  We have to take his word for it, as all we could see was 2000 feet of cloud.  It was quite otherworldly on top, however, so it was fun in its own way.

When the sun does come out we are treated to remarkable views of cliffs and the sea.  Yesterday we came upon a directional sign to “the best bench in the world”.  Who could resist checking that out?  It was indeed a dramatically situated bench, with a sea cave in an island below, and vertically oriented rock strata all about.

Tomorrow we descend from the hills and continue on our journey to the better known pilgrimage destination in Galicia.  While I’m looking forward to the final few chapters of this pilgrimage story, I will be a little sad to complete the wild and beautiful Camino del Mar.