Costa da Morte

June 17, 2024 – Corme to Malpica de Bergantiños – 16 kms – Apartamento Mencer

Upon reaching Santiago we still had about 10 more days available.  What to do?  As in Japan in 2019, the only possible response was keep walking and cycling.

Our first destination was Muxía, which we remembered fondly from our first visit in 2011.  From there we have continued up the coast with the ultimate goal of A Coruña.

We have discovered several new walking routes along this dramatically named Costa da Morte (Coast of Death).  There is the 200 km Camiño dos Faros (Lighthouse Trail) that follows the coast closely from Finisterra to Malpica.  I walked several sections and found it to be varied and frequently spectacular.  Some portions were reminiscent of East Sooke Park, which is to say slow and challenging along a rocky coast, while other sections traversed sand dunes or areas with enormous granite boulders.  We met a number of walkers from several countries that were doing the Faros, so it is developing a following.

We also encountered a new (to us) Camino, the Via Celtica.  It appears to be designed to encourage pilgrims to visit a number of the port cities on the Costa da Morte, but it does ultimately enter Santiago by a unique route.

The port cities on this coast are indeed worth visiting.  Most are fishing ports, so they generally have a boat basin and a beach in front of an irregular cluster of houses.  We found Muxía, Laxe, and Malpica to be quite intriguing and attractive.  And as for Corme, well, it builds a compelling argument for urban planning.

We have spent over three weeks in Galicia on this trip.  It is endlessly beautiful and interesting and continues to engage us.  I would encourage pilgrims who have completed their Camino, and continued on to Finisterra or Muxía, to just continue up the coast if they have additional time.  The pilgrim community ends at Muxía, but the beauty just continues to unfurl.