Ruth: Overnight the Hmong villages in the mountains between Phoukoun and Nong Tiang were transformed into a colourful display. It was the first day of their multi-day New Year celebration, and we were lucky enough to be passing through. Everyone was wearing their very best outfits with no two alike. Hmong are the third largest recognized ethnic group in Laos. The majority of Hmong follow both ... Read More
Ruth: Even if we had wifi or cell yesterday, which we didn't, I had no leftover energy to blog a single word. We have set a new personal record for vertical climbing in a single day: 1900 meters! Fortunately the road was well graded and stunning. By the time I rolled into the guesthouse at Kiewkacham, stuffed my face with noodles and soup I could barely ... Read More
IRuth: On our third day in Luang Prabang we decided to take the slow boat a few hours up the Mekong River to visit the the Buddha Caves at Pak Ou. The Mekong is still a major transport route for all the countries along it, and perhaps the only flat ride in Laos. Of course, as soon as I got on the boat I needed ... Read More
Gordon: Like a number of other travellers we have met we made an effort to be in Luang Prabang for Christmas. This small city is certainly the most popular destination for foreign tourists in Laos. And for good reason, as Luang Prabang is a charming town on the Mekong River with a laid back vibe. It has UNESCO world heritage status for its fusion of ... Read More
Ruth: So what do you call sea weed that is not from the sea? The villages along our route this morning were busy producing a nori like river weed product. Women were working the river collecting the greenery that was later slapped out into a uniform layer on a drying mat. Tomatoes, sesame seeds and slivers of onions were sprinkled on top before more slapping ... Read More
Ruth: Nong Khiaw is only a 30km detour off our route to Luang Prabang, and well worth the additional distance. The Karst landscape provides a stunning backdrop to this lovely town squeezed between mountains and the river Ou. We visited a nearby cave that sheltered the Pathet Lao, the communist revolutionary force, from American air strikes during the Vietnam war. The former regional capital was so damaged ... Read More
Gordon: Ruth started writing today's blog, producing a single sentence before collapsing on the bed. It is 6:30 pm and she is snoring beside me as I write this. Ruth is justifiably tired after our most challenging ride. On other days we have cycled more than the 82 kms we covered today, but never with as much climbing. There were two major ascents, with a ... Read More
Gordon: Today's ride was a modest 61 kms in length, but it did involve a 500 metre climb to 1120 metres, the highest we have been on this trip. Conditions were perfect, however, and we had a relaxed and rewarding ride. Unlike some of our previous climbs, the road was well designed, with grades limited to 7 or 8 percent. We gently wound our way ... Read More
Ruth / Gordon: This is the second time we have cycled within spitting distance of China. The closest we have been was during our trip in Northern India, when we were only a few kilometres away. The Chinese influence is strong here, with the majority of the restaurants and guesthouses being operated by Chinese. We were hoping for one or two guesthouses in Namor, but ... Read More
Ruth: Luang Namtha is a trekking base and most tourists here head off for one or two nights into the jungle to stay with different minority groups. About five Akha women work the town's tourist area officially selling bracelets and purses, but they also showed us their secret stash of pot for sale.It is a magic moment checking into a guesthouse with a sitting toilet ... Read More